Proofer not steaming

The proofer runs but produces no humidity.

Proofers have few parts and a short fault list. Two of the four checks below cost nothing.

2 of the 4 checks below cost you nothing. Work through them before asking for a replacement-part identification.

  1. Check the water level and the supply

    Obvious, and still the most common cause. A tray that has run dry or a closed supply valve produces exactly the symptom of a failed element.

    No part needed if this is your fault
  2. Descale the tray and the float

    Limescale on a float switch holds it in the "full" position, so the system never calls for water. Cleaning it is free and fixes a good share of these calls.

    No part needed if this is your fault
  3. Test the humidity element

    Isolate, disconnect one leg and measure resistance. Open circuit means a failed element. Moisture-rated elements fail at the terminal seal more often than along the tube, so inspect that end.

    Proofer Humidity Element →

  4. Test the float switch

    With the tray empty, the switch should read open or closed depending on type; lift the float by hand and confirm it changes state. No change means a failed switch.

    Float Water Level Switch →

Still not sure? Send us photos

Upload them here without leaving the page. We will review the evidence and tell you if we need more information.

Send us photos — we read the dimensions ourselves

  • The machine nameplate — brand, model and electrical rating
  • The old part — whole part, clean surface
  • Where it sits — before you remove it
  • Part markings and terminals — numbers, labels, connectors or fittings
  • Measurements with a scale in frame — caliper or ruler; important for gaskets, floats and hinges

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